A quick lesson on home-sawn veneer. Check out all of our videos and projects at thewoodwhisperer.com
Video Rating: 4 / 5
Old Sigurdson mill to open near Hanceville
For at least two years the Sigurdson Mill in the Chilcotin has sat dormant. But now the mill, renamed River West Forest Products and revamped, is being resurrected with the help of financial investment from four First Nations communities.
Read more on Kelowna Capital News
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Tags: Cutting, Veneer, Woodworking
i love how over built your fence is, screws nails and glue and it coulda used half the supports!
totally the same thing i would have done! keep on with the great videos
@Yaridnac If I recall correctly they were probably just 18ga.
Hi, what size brad nails do you use for this project? Cool Video Thx!
Thanks! Very well done!
Great video as usual, Marc! This is going to save me some money- I am about to remodel my kitchen using hardwood flooring, and doing this should save quite a bit of loot over buying veneer floor slats. Just make it a little thicker and cut a tongue and groove and it should work out nice. Thanks again!
@samson1520022000 Absolutely!
do you set your fence for drift before re sawing?
@dchamberss Usually I just use what I have on hand. I don’t consider the strength differences between I, II, and III to be dramatic enough to justify stocking them all and using them selectively based on strength. So I base my decisions on what I have on hand at the time and how much water the piece will see.
As for my training, I worked with David Marks for a short time, and I spent about a year working in a refinishing shop. The rest (most) is self-training and studying.
I wouldn’t mention this, but I noticed you used titebond II on the cutting board – titebond III would have been a better choice due to it’s higher ANSI rating.
Here, you used Titebond III for the fence, when Titebond I would have sufficed at about 1/2 -1/3 the cost.
What gives?
Anyway, love your videos. I see a few “mistakes” here and there, but I also learn something in every video. How’d a young guy like you get so much expertise (i.e. who trained you)?
Thanks.
@c0kar7 Well, you supply the nude chicks and I’ll feed ‘em the beans.
good vid. now only thing you need are nude chicks in the background farting
@papadonto8 You can do it with any wood, really. That’s what makes veneering so great. You can take any wood you want and make it last a long time. Or make an entire table top from one piece of wood. And in your case, re-skin a door. If you do decide to do a bunch of these doors, you may want to look into vacuum press.
Can you do the same thing with 2X6 and 2X4 since my idea is to buy slab doors and veneer them with natural wood designs. I don’t have a band saw but my friend does. Any tips on this? Also thanks for your answer on my previous question.
@DuctTaper98 There are many places on line that sell veneer. One that I really like is Veneer Supplies.
where do u buy veneer
Nice presentation. Kind of hard to believe that you get 8 sheets from a 1″ board, though. Especially rough cutting to 1/8″. I’m good and I’m lucky to get 5-6 on nice straight grain stock. And I wouldn’t recommend gluing down a sawn surface. At least clean it up with a scraper. What blade are you using in the resaw?
thanks for the info, the site im getting the info from says the veneer thickness ranges from (.058 / 1.47mm) to (.050 / 1.27mm) for the cross band.i would imagine these are factory produced and machined, probably too thin to do myself. ill keep watching your videos for more tips though.
It really depends on how well-tuned your drum sander is. I know guys who have it so well tuned that they pretty much make paper thin sheets of veneer just for fun. So You can pretty much go as thin as you dare.
how thin could you go by this method?, how thin could you go with a thickness planer?. id like to make a skateboard and veneer seems hard to come by around here.
tight quarters are always associated to woodworking shops for some reason. haha. its all about making things work. i have a electric hoist that my 4′x8′ veneer press is hung on and it hangs in the cieling above the table saw. iv seen some small shops that are just are amazingly orginized.
Yup just me. Oddly enough, I might be moving very soon and I will have to downsize the shop a bit. But I used to work in a small garage so I am no stranger to tight quarters, despite being spoiled for the past 4 years.
really its only you? I share a shop with a friend only a few hundred square feet. You are very fortunite to be able to work alone. your shop looks huge and from what i see in the videos you got really awesome tools. seams like a cool and creative place to work.
No argument here. Just different ways of accomplishing a task. And I actually have a one-man shop. Its all me.
yes that would work quite well as a floating panel. i dont want to arguee. its just interesting to see how every woodworker dose thing slightly different then the next. I studyed with Mark Paddison threw Humber College in Toronto. keep up the videos, i do like your design taste, how many people work in that shop?
I agree that 1/8″-3/16″ would give a pretty noticeable border. I suppose some might like it. But the veneer I am talking about in this video is bandsawn at about 1/8″ and sanded down to 3/32″. Thats starting to get thin enough that the endgrain becomes less and less of an issue.
But ultimately, to each his own. Many folks just trim out the veneered board after the veneering is done, which gives a noticeable border regardless of the veneer thickness. And same thing when making panels.